Travel in Romania is as rewarding as it is challenging. The country’s mountain scenery and great diversity of wildlife, its cultures and people, and a way of life that at times seems out of the last century, leave few who visit unaffected.
Romania has majestic castles, medieval towns, great hiking and wildlife, and the cheap skiing of much of the 'undiscovered' former Eastern Bloc. You'll be floored at how different Romania is, but you'll almost certainly see signs that it's chasing the dreams of the rest of the West.

Travelling independently will have its frustrating moments, balancing inclinations and plans against practicalities. However, it would be a shame to let such factors deter you from at least a brief independent foray. Much of Romania’s charm lies in the remoter, less-visited regions, and it’s the experience of getting there that really gives you an insight into the country. Rather than expecting an easy ride, try to accept whatever happens as an adventure.

The best of Romania, though, is its countryside, and in particular the mountain scenery. The wild Carpathians, forming the frontier between the province of Transylvania and, to the east and south, Moldavia and Wallachia, shelter bears, stags, chamois and eagles; while the Bucegi, Fagaras and Retezat ranges and the Padis plateau offer some of the most undisturbed and spectacular hiking opportunities in Europe. In contrast to the crowded Black Sea beaches along Romania’s east coast, the waterlogged Danube Delta is a place set apart from the rest of the country where life has hardly changed for centuries and where boats are the only way to reach many settlements. During spring and autumn, especially, hundreds of species of birds from all over the Old World migrate through this region or come to breed.

Few countries can offer such a wealth of distinctive folk music, festivals and customs, all still going strong in remoter areas like Maramures and Transylvania regions. Almost any exploration of the villages of rural Romania will be rewarding, with sights as diverse as the log houses in Oltenia, Delta villages built of reeds, watermills built entirely of wood in Maramures, and above all the country’s abundance of churches, which reflect a history of competing communities and faiths. In medieval Transylvania four religions (Roman Catholic, Reformat, Lutheran and Unitarian) and three “nations” (Saxon, Hungarian and Szekely) were recognized, a situation stigmatized as the “Seven Deadly Sins of Transylvania” as the Romanian majority and their Orthodox were excluded.

WHEN TO GO
The climate is pretty crucial in deciding where to go and when, since life can be literally at risk during winter unless you come fully equipped. Conditions improve with spring, bringing rain and wildflowers to the mountains and the softest of blue skies over Bucharest, and prompting the great migration of birds through the Delta. By May the lowlands are warming up and you might well find strong sunshine on the coast before the hordes arrive in July. Summer or early autumn is the perfect time to investigate Transylvania’s festivals and hiking trails, and to see the Painted Monasteries of Bucovina, while flocks of birds again pass through the Delta towards the end of autumn.